Monday, 27 June 2016

How to Choose The Best CPU - Guide to Buy a CPU


Every computer needs a motherboard, and every motherboard needs a CPU. The CPU, which stands for Central Processing Unit, determines how much data a computer can handle at one time and how quickly it can handle that data. The main things to consider when buying a CPU are the number of cores needed, what the computer will be used for, the type of software to be run, processor compatibility, and the speed of the CPU.

Whether you want to build a desktop computer from scratch or upgrade one you already own, the most important single component is the processor. The "brain" of your computer, it determines what you're able to do and how quickly you're able to do it, and is generally capable of controlling everything from the efficiency with which you plow through Excel spreadsheets to how well you can play games during your downtime. And with very few exceptions, the power you get from a CPU is directly related to the amount of money you spend to buy it.

The good news is that this doesn't necessarily mean that you're doomed to a slow computer if you're watching every penny. As with most things in life, upgrading your processor—which may also be referred to as a CPU (Central Processing Unit) or APU (Accelerated Processing Unit, but only for certain AMD chips)—is mostly a matter of optimizing whatever resources you have. Making smart decisions about what you buy and why is therefore critical. Luckily, the process isn't complicated. By addressing just a few basic issues, you can find a chip that will net you surprisingly fast computer—regardless of what you have to spend.

When purchasing a CPU, a number of options are on the market. Here you will find a summary of the types of CPUs available.

  1. Desktop CPUs
  2. Mobile Processors
  3. Server Processors

AMD or Intel?

This question is vital when you're upgrading, because AMD's and Intel's CPUs won't work in the other standard's motherboards, but it's relatively inconsequential when you're building a system for the first time. Though certain AMD and Intel CPUs do certain things better than others, those differences seldom matter much in terms of ordinary, everyday computing.


So don't worry that you'll be cutting yourself off from certain tasks or aspirations if you choose one over the other. But one aspect of this choice is related to the previous issue: Every CPU in AMD's consumer catalog is available for under $225, while the most expensive Intel chip runs $999. Does Intel deliver oomph to match the money? In most cases, yes—but you won't necessarily be able to take advantage of it in every situation. Finding the right blend of performance and price for you may start with the CPU's manufacturer, but never assume it ends there.

Price

Usually, PC building or upgrading begins with asking, "What do I want to do?" Not this time. For all intents and purposes, you can perform all the same tasks with a $100 CPU that you can with a $500 one—the biggest difference is in how well you're able to perform them. Therefore, deciding your budget is the first step, for purposes of managing expectations as much as anything else.


If you know right out of the gate that you may need 10 minutes to render a video rather than 20 seconds, you won't be disappointed when you discover your processor's limitations. Figure out the most you can spend on one component, and then see where that figure lies between (approximately) $100 and $1,000. The closer the chip is to the former, the slower it's probably going to be. There are exceptions to this we'll get to shortly, but it's a good rule of thumb.

Productivity or Play?

AMD actually has somewhat of an advantage here. Despite being lower-priced and not performing as well in some CPU-dependent titles as their Intel counterparts, AMD chips are very well-suited to rendering and professional applications due to the amount of low-power cores they possess.

However, these applications can be significantly slower on Intel chips – even the high-end i5 chips which are more suited to raw power than professional solutions. i7s become an incredibly mighty contender for both professional applications and pure power but only once you’ve spent a couple hundred more than you would otherwise.

If your only focus is gaming and you have the cash, go for an Intel chip. Need to save? Grab a good AMD chip.



Want to prioritize productivity? No need to shell out more for Intel. AMD chips are perfectly fine for common usage and very good for professional applications at their price range. Plus, for games that aren’t CPU-heavy, AMD chips perform great, too.

If you want the best in productivity and gaming, though, you’ll want to shell out for an Intel i7. i7s can start as low as three hundred dollars and go as high as a full thousand. They are extremely powerful chips, no matter what you’re doing. For people who want just the absolute best gaming performance, however, don’t bother with an i7. The i5 will get the same gaming performance in most cases; it just won’t do as well for things like rendering or streaming.

Features To know About


Cores :

Less than a decade ago, all processors came with a single core. Nowadays single-core processors are the exception and not the rule. Multi-core processors have become more popular as their availability has become increasingly common and software has been designed to utilize multi-core technology. From dual-core to eight-core processors, there are a number of options to choose from. When deciding how many cores are needed, first it is necessary to understand what “multiple cores” means.



When processors were running on a single core, that one core was responsible for handling all the data sent to the processor. As more cores are integrated into a processor, those cores are able to split up the processor’s tasks. This makes the processor faster and more efficient. However, it is important to remember that a processor can only perform as well as the existing software running it. If the software is only able to utilize three of the eight cores, then five cores are going to be unused. To maximize cost and use, it is best to match system requirements with core availability.

Socket Compatibility :

Once you know whether you're buying an AMD or Intel CPU, and how much money you'll have to spend, you need to think about the motherboard socket into which the processor will fit. These evolve over time as new technical developments and processes require new hardware, and the differences between them can be confusing. AMD currently has two main sockets: FM1 (for use with its APUs) and AM3+ (which, in addition to accommodating its current high-end Bulldozer-based CPUs, offer strong backward compatibility with several prior years' releases).



On the other hand, Intel's mainstream processors now use the LGA1155 socket, whereas its enthusiast models use the LGA2011—and you can still find chips for older Intel sockets like LGA1166, LGA1366, and more. As mentioned, lower-priced CPUs for one socket type are usually going to be slower than others of that type, so if you think you may want to upgrade again soon, take a look at what else is available so you make the right decision.

Frequency or Clock Speed :

The frequency of a CPU, measured in hertz (Hz), is the speed at which it operates. In the past, a merely faster frequency equaled better performance. This is not necessarily the case any longer. In some cases, a CPU running at a lower frequency may actually perform better than a processor running at a higher frequency due to the infrastructure of the CPU.



It is important to look at a CPU’s “instructions per clock” in addition to the frequency of the CPU. While frequency is still a good indication of how quickly a processor can perform, it is no longer the only factor that impacts the actual speed of a processor.

Integrated Graphics :

Within the last couple of years, both AMD and Intel have unveiled new processing platforms that bring real video technology onto the processor die for the first time. This means that if you're buying an AMD Fusion APU or an Intel second- or third-generation Core ("Sandy Bridge" or "Ivy Bridge") CPU, and you have a compatible motherboard, you can get some of the best video quality and media-processing power yet seen in systems without discrete cards.




If you're planning on doing any sort of 3D gaming, or if you're using higher-end AMD or Intel chips (which lack integrated video altogether), you'll need to add a discrete card. But editing photos and transcoding video is now speedier on mainstream machines than it's ever been. Different models of these processors have different levels of graphics hardware, like everything else basically scaling with chip price.

Thermal Design Power :

Processors generate heat. The thermal design power specification assigned to a CPU explains how much heat the processor is going to give off. This will directly affect the type of cooling device needed for a CPU. If the CPU does not come with a cooling device or if the cooling device provided is not used, a device must be installed that can cool the system sufficiently. Overheating is a primary danger to a computer’s componentry.




Boost potential :

Newer Intel and AMD releases incorporate a new technology that doesn't limit clock speed to just the standard values. If one of these processor has sufficient power, and is sufficiently cooled, it can dynamically increase its speed for a period of time to give you even more performance than you started with.




(Intel's implementation of this is called Turbo Boost, AMD's is Turbo Core.) Processors that support this feature will tell you what this new speed is—the 3.3GHz Core i7-3960X Extreme Edition, for example, is capable of Turbo Boosting up to 3.9GHz—and the jump you'll get, unsurprisingly, tends to scale with processor price. You won't always have much (if any) control over this, but if you want to know just what your chip can do, this number will tell you.

Manufacturing Technology :

 This refers to the depth of the die from which the processor has been constructed. Over time, these tend to get smaller and more energy-efficient, and thus more powerful. The top-of-the-line CPUs on the market now use 22nm (Intel) or 32nm (AMD and Intel) technology, with older CPUs at 45nm or more. You'll seldom have to worry about this, aside from making sure that your processor works with the motherboard into which you'll be installing it.




64-bit support :

 Practically every CPU on the market today is a 64-bit model, which means it can process 64 bits (or eight bytes) of information at one time, as opposed to the 32 bits that were common until several years ago. This can mean significant performance improvements in 64-bit software (which is accelerating in popularity and availability). Because so many of today's apps, from Windows to Photoshop, support 64-bit technology, you're better off avoiding 32-bit processors should you happen to come across them.



Cache :

 Of all the numbers you may encounter when perusing CPUs, cache can be the most confusing—in no small part because there are three different kinds, and their names are all very similar: L1, L2, and L3. The "L" stands for "level," and thinking about caches in those terms makes them easier to understand.




L1 is the CPU's primary cache, the fastest section of its memory and the one most closely responsible for a processor's performance because it's where instructions are stored while they're waiting to be processed. L2 functions in almost exactly the same way, but instead of feeding instructions to the microprocessor itself, it feeds them to the L1 cache (and uses slower memory). The L3 cache feeds the L2, and is slower still. But in general, the more memory is in all of these, the more efficient the CPU will be.

TDP :

 Just like everything else inside your computer, processors require electricity. A CPU's Thermal Design Power (TDP) rating tells you how much you can expect it to require at full load. For most people, this isn't going to be a huge problem, but if you're already close to maxing out your power supply, it's something you'll want to think about: Processors using the LGA1155 socket range in TDP from 95 watts to 35 watts—but if you decide to splurge and upgrade to a {{ziffarticle id="294495"}}Core i7-3930K{{/ziffarticle}} on the LGA2011 socket, its TDP is 130 watts.




Many computer components will use more than this, so it's probably not something you'll need to worry about, but it's worth your attention—as long as your motherboard can handle processors of at least the same TDP (this information is easily available when shopping online).

Overclockability :

 Overclocking your CPU (changing your motherboard's settings to make the processor run faster than its standard speed) is too in-depth and complex to get into here. But if you're interested in pushing your PC to its limits—and you don't mind taking a few risks (overclocking can put serious stress on your components, and even cause damage if it's not done properly)—you'll want to look for CPUs with unlocked multipliers.




These give you a great deal of freedom in just how high you can nudge your chip upward, and make the lengthy (and potentially tedious) process a more manageable and enjoyable one.


Please leave a comment below explaining how you think it can be improved or where you find fault. This article is written by us. Thus your opinions and advice are not only much appreciated, but actually necessary in order for this article to grow and improve.

Tuesday, 21 June 2016

How to Clean My Internet Browser History ?

As you browse the Internet, everything you view is saved to the cache on your computer. Using cache helps everything load faster because data comes from your hard drive instead of a server in a different part of the world. To conserve hard drive space or keep your browsing private, you can clear or delete the history (cache). Select your Internet browser from the following list to get started.

1.  Google Chrome

     Viewing History 

  • Open the Chrome browser.
  • Press Ctrl + H to open the left-side history bar.
- OR -
  • Click the Wrench icon or Menu icon, which is located near the top-right side of the browser window.
  • Click History.

     Deleting History

  • Open the Chrome browser.
  • Press Ctrl + Shift + Del to open the Clear Browsing Data Window.
  • Click the Clear browsing data button.
- OR - 
  • Click the Wrench icon or Menu icon, which is located near the top-right side of the browser window.
  • Move your mouse over More tools and select Clear browsing data...
  • Select how far back in your history you want to delete. You can choose from the past hour, the past day, the past week, the last four weeks, and the beginning of time.
  • Select the types of history you would like to delete by checking or unchecking boxes on this list:



  • Click the Clear browsing data button to delete the selected history for the chosen period.

2.  Mozilla Firefox

     Viewing History

If you do not have a home page set...

  • Open the Firefox browser.
  • Click the History button at the bottom of the browser window.
- OR -

If you do have a home page set...

  • Open the Firefox browser.
  • Press Ctrl + H to open the history bar on the left-hand side of the screen, or Ctrl + Shift + H to open the history window.
  • You can also click the Hamburger Menu icon in the top right-hand corner of the screen and select History in the menu.

     Deleting History 

  • Open the Firefox browser. 
  • Press Ctrl + Shift + Del to open the Clear Recent History window. 
  • Select an option for Time range to clear. 
  • Click the arrow for Details and select the options to have cleared. 
  • Click the Clear Now button. 
- OR - 

  • Open the Firefox browser. 
  • Click Menu in the top right-hand corner of the screen. 
  • Click the History button. 
  • Click the Clear recent history option. 
  • Select an option for Time range to clear. 
  • Click the arrow for Details and select the options to have cleared. 
  • Click the Clear Now button.

3.  Microsoft Edge

     Viewing History

  • Open the Microsoft Edge browser. 
  • Press Ctrl + H to open the history menu. 
- OR -
  • Open the Microsoft Edge browser. 
  • In the upper right-hand corner, select the Hub button. 
  • Select the History to view your browser history.

     Delete History

  • Open the Microsoft Edge browser. 
  • Press Ctrl + H to open the history menu. 
  • Select Clear all history. 
  • Choose the appropriate boxes for types of data you'd like to clear. 
  • Select Clear. 
- OR - 
  • Open the Microsoft Edge browser. 
  • In the upper right-hand corner, select the Hub button. 
  • Select the History to view your browser history. 
  • Select Clear all history. 
  • Choose the appropriate boxes for types of data you'd like to clear. 
  • Select Clear.

4.  Microsoft Internet Explorer

      Viewing History in Internet Explorer 7 and above

  • Open the Microsoft Internet Explorer browser. 
  • Click Tools in the upper right-hand corner. 
  • Select Internet Options from the drop down menu. 
  • On the General tab, in the Browsing history section, click the Settings button. 
  • On the Temporary Internet Files tab, click the View Files button.

      Viewing History in Internet Explorer 6.x

  • Open the Microsoft Internet Explorer browser.
  • In the toolbar at the top of the screen, click the Tools menu.
  • In the drop down menu, select Internet Options.
  • Click the Settings button.
  • Click the View Files button.

     Delete History Using Shortcut Keys

  • Open the Microsoft Internet Explorer browser. 
  • Press Ctrl + Shift + Del to open the Delete Browsing History window. 
  • Check the boxes of the data you'd like to clear. 
  • Click Delete. 

     Delete History in Internet Explorer 7 and Above

  • Open the Microsoft Internet Explorer browser. 
  • Click Tools in the upper right-hand corner. 
  • Select Internet Options from the drop down menu. 
  • On the General tab, in the Browsing history section, click the Delete button. 
  • Check the boxes of the data you'd like to clear. 
  • Click Delete. 

     Delete History in Internet Explorer 6 and Above

  • Open the Microsoft Internet Explorer browser. 
  • In the toolbar at the top of the screen, click the Tools menu. 
  • In the drop down menu, select Internet Options. 
  • Click the Clear Browser History button. 
  • Click the Delete Files button. 
  • Click OK. 



5.  Opera

     Viewing History

  • Open the Opera Internet browser. 
  • Press Ctrl + H to open the History tab. 
- OR -
  • Open the Opera browser. 
  • Click the opera icon in the upper left-hand corner of the window. 
  • From the drop down menu, select History. 

     Deleting History

  • Open the Opera browser. 
  • Click the opera icon in the upper left-hand corner of the window. 
  • From the drop down menu, select History. 
  • Click Clear browsing data... 
  • Next to Obliterate the following items from: click the down arrow and select the beginning of time. 
  • Check the appropriate boxes then click Clear browsing data.

6.  Safari

     Viewing History

  • Open the Safari browser.
  • In the menu bar at the top of the browser window, open the History menu.
  • In the History menu, you will see the last 10 web pages you have visited listed. You should also see a menu option for each of the last 6 or 7 days, listing the web pages visited each of those days. By default, history is only kept for the last 7 days.

     Deleting History


Depending on the version of Safari on your computer, follow one of the following two sets of instructions.

  • Open the Safari browser.
  • In the menu bar at the top of the browser window, open the Safari menu.
  • Select Clear History and Website Data in the Safari menu.
  • In the Clear drop-down list, select an option for how far back you want to delete history for: the last hour, today, today and yesterday, or all history.
  • Click the Clear History button to clear browser history, as well as browser cookies and data.
- OR - 
  • Click on the Gear icon, which is located near the top-right side of the browser window. 
  • Click the Reset Safari... link, which opens the window shown below. Unchecked any boxes whose content you do not want to delete and click the Reset button.



7. Netscape

     Viewing History

  • Open the Netscape browser.
  • From the toolbar, click Edit, Preferences, History.
  • Locate the folder in which Netscape is storing your files.
  • Double click this folder within Explorer to view your browser history..

     Deleting History

  • Open the Netscape browser.
  • From the toolbar, click Edit, Preferences, History.
  • Click the Clear History button.

Sunday, 19 June 2016

How to Stay Anonymous and Protect Your Privacy Online



Now more than ever, your online privacy is under attack. Your ISP, advertisers, and governments around the world are increasingly interested in knowing exactly what you’re up to when you browse the web. Whether you’re a political activist or simply someone who hates the idea of third-parties snooping around, there are plenty of tools available to keep prying eyes off of your traffic.

In this post, I’m going to highlight 18 ways to increase your online privacy. Some methods are more complicated than others, but if you’re serious about privacy, these tips will help you remain anonymous on the open Web. Of course, Internet security is a topic in and of itself, so you’re going to need to do some reading to remain thoroughly protected on all fronts. And remember, even the most careful among us are still vulnerable to imperfect technology.

1. The Onion Tor Browser

Tor is a service that helps you to protect your anonymity while using the Internet. Toris comprised of two parts: software you can download that allows you to use the Internet anonymously, and the volunteer network of computers that makes it possible for that software to work.



The core principle of Tor, "onion routing", was developed in the mid-1990s by United States Naval Research Laboratory employees, mathematician Paul Syverson and computer scientists Michael Reed and David Goldschlag, with the purpose of protecting U.S. intelligence communications online.

Is it illegal to use the Tor Browser? Just using Tor to browse the Internet is not illegal. The download is free, and hiding your IP address and browsing history is not, in and of itself, illegal. However, many of those that use Tor use it specifically for anonymity because they are doing something illegal.

2. VPN

If you’re very serious about maintaining your anonymity, consider investing in a VPN solution like TorGuard or Private Internet Access. These services essentially allow you to disguise your traffic. Your real IP address will be hidden from the world, and your traffic will remain indecipherable to nosy ISPs or governments.

Even if your government is actively on the lookout for VPN traffic, you can still benefit from so-called “stealth VPNs.” TorGuard offers its stealth VPN service at no additional cost, and it will make government detection and interference much harder to accomplish. For those of you being held hostage by your government, VPNs are by far the best bet for bypassing censorship and snooping.

3. Virtual Machines

In computing, a virtual machine (VM) is an emulation of a particular computer system. Virtual machines operate based on the computer architecture and functions of a real or hypothetical computer, and their implementations may involve specialized hardware, software, or a combination of both.


Keep in mind, your browser isn’t the only vector for third parties to invade your privacy. PDFs and other seemingly harmless files can serve as homing beacons, and potentially alert government entities when you’re viewing planted contraband. To prevent any sort of unintended breach of privacy, you should open suspect files inside of a virtual machine.

Load up your favorite Linux distribution inside of VirtualBox, configure it to your liking, and then save a snapshot of your VM. Next, download your desired file (using the protections illuminated in this article), and then shut off your virtual machine’s access to the Internet. Once you’re sure that the VM is cut off completely from the network, you can now open the file safely. Read what you need to read, make notes, and then shut down the virtual machine. Next time you need to view a file inside a VM, you’ll have your snapshot ready to go.

4. Blocking Third-Party Cookies

Third-party cookies are cookies that are set by a website other than the one you are currently on. For example, cnn.com might have a Facebook like button on their site. That like button will set a cookie that can be read by Facebook. That would be considered a third-party cookie.

Third-party cookies are one of the most common methods that advertisers use to track your browsing habits. If you visit two sites using the same advertising service, rest assured that the advertiser is keeping tabs on that information. Thankfully, every major Web browser offers the ability to turn off tracking cookies. Without third-party cookies, advertisers have to work much harder to monitor which pages you visit. While this is far from a panacea, it shuts down the most common vector used by advertisers to build usage profiles.

5. Turn On Private Browsing

If you don’t want anyone with physical access to your computer to see where you’re hanging out online you should enable “private browsing,” a setting available in each major web browser. It deletes cookies, temporary Internet files and browsing history after you close the window. Every company that advertises online is interested in knowing what sites you visit, what you buy, who you’re friends with on social networks, what you like and more. By gathering information about your online activities they can serve you targeted ads that are more likely to entice you to buy something.


For instance, the Facebook, Twitter, and Google+ buttons you see on just about every site allow those networks to track you even if you don’t have an account or are logged into them. Other times information collection companies rely on embedded code in banner ads that track your visits, preferences, and demographic information. If you truly care about your privacy you’ll surf the Internet anonymously by hiding your IP address. You can do this using a web proxy, a Virtual Private Network (VPN) or Tor, a free open network that works by routing your traffic through a series of servers, operated by volunteers around the world, before sending it to your destination.

6. Privacy Badger Browser Extension

If you’re looking for a “set it and forget it” method of blocking trackers online, try out the EFF’s Privacy Badger add-on. Available for Chrome and Firefox, this browser extension monitors when sites try to track your browsing habits, and automatically thwarts future tracking attempts.



While this add-on is built using the Ad-Block Plus codebase, this isn’t really an ad-blocking tool. Instead, the EFF is only interested in blocking snoops. Best of all, the list of blocked content automatically improves the more you browse — no need to fiddle with filters by hand.

7. Encrypt Your Connections

Encryption is the process of encoding information so that it is only intelligible to those given access to read it. Many online services, such as Facebook, Twitter and Gmail, now offer encrypted connections. Ensure that your browser uses an encrypted connection wherever it’s supported by installing the "HTTPS Everywhere" plug-in.


Email is an inherently insecure communications medium, but there are options available for encryption, such as Pretty Good Privacy. Unfortunately, your email messages will only be encrypted if the people you are communicating with also use a compatible encryption service, so this limits its usefulness.

8. Use a Password Manager

A password manager makes it easy to have a unique password for every site and ensures that if one service is hacked, other services will not be vulnerable. Some are free, many are low cost, and they are available for all platforms, including mobile.


9. Keep Your Social Network Activity Private

Check your Facebook settings and make sure only friends can see what you’re doing. Go to the settings cog in the upper right hand corner of your screen, then click on Privacy Settings >> Who can see my stuff.



On Twitter, click on the settings cog, then Settings. From there you can adjust all sorts of privacy settings, such as a box that gives Twitter permission to add your location to tweets as well as the ability to make your tweets private, meaning only people you approve can see them. You can also stop the microblogging platform from tailoring your Twitter experience based on other sites you visit.

If you use Google+, go to Home >> Settings. There you can adjust things like who can interact with you, comment on your posts or start a conversation with you.

10. Browser Leak Testing



Is your browser disclosing personally identifiable information? Head over to BrowserLeaks.com, and take a gander at all of the data your browser is giving away. This tool set will never be completely exhaustive, but if you want to verify that your privacy and security precautions are really working, this site is an invaluable asset.


Please leave a comment below explaining how you think it can be improved or where you find fault. This article is written by us. Thus your opinions and advice are not only much appreciated, but actually necessary in order for this article to grow and improve.